Sweet and sour: how slavery, fake science and the love of profit got Britain hooked on sugar

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maryjaneholland

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"Doctors have been warning of the health risks from sugar for almost 400 years. Here’s how we still ended up consuming so much of it..." - Author Pen Vogler

"As Mary Wollstonecraft warned more than 200 years ago, being beholden to sugar is a form of bondage..." - Stuffed: A History of Good Food and Hard Times in Britain, published by Atlantic Books
 
Mary Wollstonecraft said that about sugar all those years ago. I suspect it was in connection with the slave trade rather than the risks in relation to sugar itself. Hence the use of the word bondage Curious.
 
Ah, a book to sell! I wondered why that was such a melodramatic article 🙄 Eg. “Just as a little sugar in an infant’s diet trains the child to become dependent on it throughout life, as an emotional reward and physiological prop”. I don’t agree. Not that children should be given lots of sugar (or any at all when they’re very young) but that implication that a tiny bit causes an addiction is rubbish and scare-mongering. In addition, people over-indulge on many foods that don’t contain sugar, eg chips, crisps, burgers, fried chicken, etc etc.

Of course, this article is in Health & Well-being, mainly read by women many of whom are all too ready to beat themselves up about supposed dietary sins 🙄

As for the use of Mary Wollenstonecraft’s “A Vindication of the Rights of Women” - a major feminist work - that’s rather offensive. She wasn’t writing about sugar. She was writing about the inequalities women were subject to, and how half the human race was treated as inferior. Here’s a fuller quote (the work is in the public domain and not under copyright). I’ve bolded some bits:

But, to have done with these episodical observations, let me return to the more specious slavery which chains the very soul of woman, keeping her for ever under the bondage of ignorance.

The preposterous distinctions of rank, which render civilization a curse, by dividing the world between voluptuous tyrants, and cunning envious dependents, corrupt, almost equally, every class of people, because respectability is not attached to the discharge of the relative duties of life, but to the station, and when the duties are not fulfilled the affections cannot gain sufficient strength to fortify the virtue of which they are the natural reward. Still there are some loop-holes out of which a man may creep, and dare to think and act for himself; but for a woman it is an herculean task, because she has difficulties peculiar to her sex to overcome, which require almost superhuman powers.

A truly benevolent legislator always endeavours to make it the interest of each individual to be virtuous; and thus private virtue becoming the cement of public happiness, an orderly whole is consolidated by the tendency of all the parts towards a common centre. But, the private or public virtue of woman is very problematical; for Rousseau, and a numerous list of male writers, insist that she should all her life be subjected to a severe restraint, that of propriety. Why subject her to propriety – blind propriety, if she be capable of acting from a nobler spring, if she be an heir of immortality? Is sugar always to be produced by vital blood? Is one half of the human species, like the poor African slaves, to be subject to prejudices that brutalize them, when principles would be a surer guard, only to sweeten the cup of man? Is not this indirectly to deny woman reason?
 
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"Doctors have been warning of the health risks from sugar for almost 400 years. Here’s how we still ended up consuming so much of it..." - Author Pen Vogler

"As Mary Wollstonecraft warned more than 200 years ago, being beholden to sugar is a form of bondage..." - Stuffed: A History of Good Food and Hard Times in Britain, published by Atlantic Books

Ah, a book to sell! I wondered why that was such a melodramatic article 🙄 Eg. “Just as a little sugar in an infant’s diet trains the child to become dependent on it throughout life, as an emotional reward and physiological prop”. Errant cr@p. Not that children should be given lots of sugar (or any at all when they’re very young) but that implication that a tiny bit causes an addiction is rubbish and scare-mongering. In addition, people over-indulge on many foods that don’t contain sugar, eg chips, crisps, burgers, fried chicken, etc etc.

Of course, this article is in Health & Well-being, mainly read by women many of whom are all too ready to beat themselves up about supposed dietary sins 🙄

As for the bizarre use of Mary Wollenstonecraft’s “A Vindication of the Rights of Women” - a major feminist work - that’s rather offensive. She wasn’t writing about sugar. She was writing about the inequalities women were subject to, and how half the human race was treated as inferior. Here’s a fuller quote (the work is in the public domain and not under copyright). I’ve bolded some bits:

But, to have done with these episodical observations, let me return to the more specious slavery which chains the very soul of woman, keeping her for ever under the bondage of ignorance.

The preposterous distinctions of rank, which render civilization a curse, by dividing the world between voluptuous tyrants, and cunning envious dependents, corrupt, almost equally, every class of people, because respectability is not attached to the discharge of the relative duties of life, but to the station, and when the duties are not fulfilled the affections cannot gain sufficient strength to fortify the virtue of which they are the natural reward. Still there are some loop-holes out of which a man may creep, and dare to think and act for himself; but for a woman it is an herculean task, because she has difficulties peculiar to her sex to overcome, which require almost superhuman powers.

A truly benevolent legislator always endeavours to make it the interest of each individual to be virtuous; and thus private virtue becoming the cement of public happiness, an orderly whole is consolidated by the tendency of all the parts towards a common centre. But, the private or public virtue of woman is very problematical; for Rousseau, and a numerous list of male writers, insist that she should all her life be subjected to a severe restraint, that of propriety. Why subject her to propriety – blind propriety, if she be capable of acting from a nobler spring, if she be an heir of immortality? Is sugar always to be produced by vital blood? Is one half of the human species, like the poor African slaves, to be subject to prejudices that brutalize them, when principles would be a surer guard, only to sweeten the cup of man? Is not this indirectly to deny woman reason?
Exactly!
 
Ah, a book to sell! I wondered why that was such a melodramatic article 🙄 Eg. “Just as a little sugar in an infant’s diet trains the child to become dependent on it throughout life, as an emotional reward and physiological prop”. Errant cr@p. Not that children should be given lots of sugar (or any at all when they’re very young) but that implication that a tiny bit causes an addiction is rubbish and scare-mongering. In addition, people over-indulge on many foods that don’t contain sugar, eg chips, crisps, burgers, fried chicken, etc etc.

Of course, this article is in Health & Well-being, mainly read by women many of whom are all too ready to beat themselves up about supposed dietary sins 🙄

As for the bizarre use of Mary Wollenstonecraft’s “A Vindication of the Rights of Women” - a major feminist work - that’s rather offensive. She wasn’t writing about sugar. She was writing about the inequalities women were subject to, and how half the human race was treated as inferior. Here’s a fuller quote (the work is in the public domain and not under copyright). I’ve bolded some bits:

But, to have done with these episodical observations, let me return to the more specious slavery which chains the very soul of woman, keeping her for ever under the bondage of ignorance.

The preposterous distinctions of rank, which render civilization a curse, by dividing the world between voluptuous tyrants, and cunning envious dependents, corrupt, almost equally, every class of people, because respectability is not attached to the discharge of the relative duties of life, but to the station, and when the duties are not fulfilled the affections cannot gain sufficient strength to fortify the virtue of which they are the natural reward. Still there are some loop-holes out of which a man may creep, and dare to think and act for himself; but for a woman it is an herculean task, because she has difficulties peculiar to her sex to overcome, which require almost superhuman powers.

A truly benevolent legislator always endeavours to make it the interest of each individual to be virtuous; and thus private virtue becoming the cement of public happiness, an orderly whole is consolidated by the tendency of all the parts towards a common centre. But, the private or public virtue of woman is very problematical; for Rousseau, and a numerous list of male writers, insist that she should all her life be subjected to a severe restraint, that of propriety. Why subject her to propriety – blind propriety, if she be capable of acting from a nobler spring, if she be an heir of immortality? Is sugar always to be produced by vital blood? Is one half of the human species, like the poor African slaves, to be subject to prejudices that brutalize them, when principles would be a surer guard, only to sweeten the cup of man? Is not this indirectly to deny woman reason?
Excellent comments.

The Guardian's health section is truly abysmal.
 
Ah, a book to sell! I wondered why that was such a melodramatic article 🙄 Eg. “Just as a little sugar in an infant’s diet trains the child to become dependent on it throughout life, as an emotional reward and physiological prop”. Errant cr@p. Not that children should be given lots of sugar (or any at all when they’re very young) but that implication that a tiny bit causes an addiction is rubbish and scare-mongering. In addition, people over-indulge on many foods that don’t contain sugar, eg chips, crisps, burgers, fried chicken, etc etc.

Of course, this article is in Health & Well-being, mainly read by women many of whom are all too ready to beat themselves up about supposed dietary sins 🙄

As for the bizarre use of Mary Wollenstonecraft’s “A Vindication of the Rights of Women” - a major feminist work - that’s rather offensive. She wasn’t writing about sugar. She was writing about the inequalities women were subject to, and how half the human race was treated as inferior. Here’s a fuller quote (the work is in the public domain and not under copyright). I’ve bolded some bits:

But, to have done with these episodical observations, let me return to the more specious slavery which chains the very soul of woman, keeping her for ever under the bondage of ignorance.

The preposterous distinctions of rank, which render civilization a curse, by dividing the world between voluptuous tyrants, and cunning envious dependents, corrupt, almost equally, every class of people, because respectability is not attached to the discharge of the relative duties of life, but to the station, and when the duties are not fulfilled the affections cannot gain sufficient strength to fortify the virtue of which they are the natural reward. Still there are some loop-holes out of which a man may creep, and dare to think and act for himself; but for a woman it is an herculean task, because she has difficulties peculiar to her sex to overcome, which require almost superhuman powers.

A truly benevolent legislator always endeavours to make it the interest of each individual to be virtuous; and thus private virtue becoming the cement of public happiness, an orderly whole is consolidated by the tendency of all the parts towards a common centre. But, the private or public virtue of woman is very problematical; for Rousseau, and a numerous list of male writers, insist that she should all her life be subjected to a severe restraint, that of propriety. Why subject her to propriety – blind propriety, if she be capable of acting from a nobler spring, if she be an heir of immortality? Is sugar always to be produced by vital blood? Is one half of the human species, like the poor African slaves, to be subject to prejudices that brutalize them, when principles would be a surer guard, only to sweeten the cup of man? Is not this indirectly to deny woman reason?
This is almost “Shakespeare.” (Quote from Mary Wollstonecraft.)
Compared to the glass ceilings and hurt feelings vlogged on TikTok.
I can never understand in a world where free speech now has a digital platform. The individual striving for deserved acceptance, (highlighting “toxic masculinity.”) likens inappropriately their personal struggle to genocide of another demographic?

The more things change, the more it stays the same. 😉
 
"Pen Vogler is the author of Dinner with Mr Darcy and Dinner with Dickens and curated the exhibition Food Glorious Food at the Charles Dickens Museum. She edited Penguin's Great Food series, writes and reviews on food history for the press and has recreated recipes from the past for BBC Television."

Interesting discussion, I would have happily posted this enlightening article published in the Guardian newspaper as an extract from book written by an experienced food writer in the "Campaigning" or "Food Industry" section of the Diabetes UK Support Forum, but there aren't any as people living with diabetes (my self included) are as uninformed and misinformed and miseducated as everyone else about how multinational corporations and supermarkets are free in our society to make huge profits every day from sugar addiction, food addiction, ultra processed foods, junk foods and promoting unhealthy diets which cause premature deaths from obesity, heart disease, cancer and diabetes where health screening is postcode lottery.

The only response I can make to decrying "I'm offended" by book written by female author who uses female pronouns, is please read the book and post full review.

See you on the streets demanding our government does something (anything?) to regulate the food and drinks industry to prevent the increasing epidemic of obesity and diabetes and preventable lifestyle conditions, and if that's also being quote "melodramatic" then buy broadsheet newspaper and read it - oh and I self-identify as one of those enemies too, I am non-binary, cue the attacks! 😉
 
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For balance here "Stuffed: A History of Good Food and Hard Times in Britain" has been praised by Dr Chris Van Tulleken as follows:

"An extraordinary book about food, health and power... Shot through with wit and humanity, Stuffed is an all-consuming read... As important as it is entertaining..." - Dr Chris Van Tulleken, Author of "Ultra Processed People - Why Do We All Eat Stuff That Isn't Food... And Why Can't We Stop?"

Enough to eat? Or Nothing To Eat? Food For Thought...

By 1945, 1.75 million children - over third of the school population - were eating free or subsidised school meals.

The 19th Century liked it's pickles to be as vibrantly green as it's tea; gherkins, cucumbers, samphire, green beans were brightened up with copper.

Supermarkets directed the cultivation of modern strawberry varieties in order to attract customers and grow in influence and size.

In Britain (and elsewhere), the conviction that 'good food' is synonymous with meat grew up in times when it was almost unaffordable, and gives it a deep-rooted status that is hard to dislodge.

In 2021, we exported a magnificent £565 million's worth of cheese, mostly to Europe. And in return we imported (principally from Ireland, Italy, France, Germany and Denmark) a whopping £1.7 billion's worth.

During World War 2, co-ops numbered a little under 1 in 10 food shops.

 
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Everyone please be respectful to different opinions on this thread. If not, the thread will be locked and deleted. We already received a few reports already.
 
I agree also that some of the comments from the general public in the Guardian comments section for this article highlight the lack of education and understanding about food and nutrition and disease, and I would like to propose again as Diabetes UK Member that there is new section on the Support Forum for "raising awareness" or "educational materials" as I understand registered charity status prevents Diabetes UK from actively getting involved in political campaigning in the public realm in breach of the Charity Commission rules and regulations, ahem, from experience they can be quite toothless about holding charities fully to account too!

Even "book club" to share educational materials and assist with raising awareness would be positive, and I personally believe that silence equals complicity, and yet none of us in the UK have fully consented to be experimented upon with unknown risks and outcomes from long-term consumption every day of ultra processed foods containing multiple non-food chemical additives we all buy and eat and drink every day from mostly unregulated supermarkets and catering venues, and the prescribed western diets we all see causing obesity, diabetes, cancer, heart disease and reducing our life expectancies have been foisted upon us, and previous decades in food history show clearly that our ancestors had healthier diets.

I challenge everyone to avoid ultra processed foods like emulsifiers, chemical additives, thickeners, gums, "E" numbers, synthetic colourings and preservatives, high fructose corn syrup and refined sugar for one week, and check the food product labelling for chemicals which are hard to pronounce and you don't recognise, as these "safe and non-toxic" chemicals allowed by EU regulations are in every aisle of every supermarket, from bakery to ready meals to frozen food to tinned food to confectionery to snack foods to sandwiches to stereotypical "junk foods" like processed meats and cheeses, and again, there are no long-term case studies or research to prove conclusively these UPF chemical additive non-foods are in fact "safe and non-toxic" for human consumption...

It was never my intention nor I believe the food writer's intention to "beatdown" upon individual people struggling with weight management, obesity, diabetes, heart disease or any kind of lifestyle conditions which are complex and difficult to manage (this includes me personally), or draw unhelpful lines in the sand about gender, as unfortunately the evidence shows UPF's containing non-food chemicals and poor diets effect everyone, except maybe the super-rich with say their own Country Estates producing year round organic food and private chefs to fully opt-out of the food and drinks industry driving down costs to maximise profits using non-food chemicals in mostly unregulated area - this is positive step away from UPF's by acknowledging they are harmful and disease causing and in my case have definitely contributed to my quote "lifestyle conditions" and I am making huge efforts to undo this damage every day.

I await to hear back from the moderators and co-ordinators about new section for "raising awareness" or "educational materials" as the "in the news" section is mostly not seen at the very bottom of the homepage, so thanks for your consideration anyway.
 
Perhaps it could be a subsection of the Food section? I’m currently trying to avoid UPFs as much as possible but it would be nice to read tips and share studies. I often dream of my ideal supermarket. It would be mainly ‘proper’ food. I think part of the problem is the whole food industry/money-making aspect. There are major companies involved.

Diabetes U.K. did comment on the sugar tax, and also worked to ban foods being labelled ‘suitable for people with diabetes’. With the government, it’s more complicated, of course, because of donors and the fear of being seen to be making a ‘nanny state’.
 
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Suggestions and feedback on the forum are always welcome @maryjaneholland 🙂

Historically, adding extra sections has always been a bit of a double-edged sword. The more separate places there are to put things, the more places there are to check (and ironically the harder it can seem to be to find the ‘right’ place for any one thing), and of course not everything can be at the top. It’s one of the reasons we have never opted for dividing threads into T1 and T2 sections. Because as much as they are very different conditions, there is also much we can learn from each other, and viewing things from the other perspective can be very helpful.

Additionally many forum members and regular readers of the forum prefer to view content under the What’s New view, precisely for this reason - so that new threads and discussions since their last visit are gathered together no matter where they are squirrelled away on the boards, sections, and subsections 🙂

 
I’m more into the peaceful protest of just “boycotting” these foodstuffs.
Apart from the small bag of sugar we’ve had for years at the back of the cupboard for the boiler man’s coffee when he services the unit once a year. But his political leaning don’t align with ours & my wife finds him obnoxious. I’ve no issue stirring in 3 spoons. 😉
 
Apologies I was attempting to encourage everyone to see the bigger picture, or provide literary tools to deconstruct the complex and emotive narratives around food history, hunger, nutrition, diets, lifestyle conditions and the profit-making food industry, but alas I am just one person and have very limited time and energy as I'm currently living precariously in building site whilst trying to manage all my medical conditions, make preparations for first holidays in December living with diabetes (I'm thinking small plate of plain roast veg and glass of water, followed by thimble of unsalted mixed nuts for the King's Christmas Speech, it's time to celebrate, whoop!), and not feeling guilty about having the street homeless encampment in the unadopted alleyway behind my terraced block removed by the council as it's really deteriorated into glass bottles, cans, nitrous oxide cannisters, drug litter, used condoms, soiled textiles, bedding, mattresses, and bizarrely supermarket shopping baskets (for recycling the empties?), but I can say I live in an urban area with many homeless charities, shelters, drop-ins, support services and help if people want to get off the streets too.

I will post more in the "books" section as I am quite bookish, and literary narratives and literature generally has really helped me in times of crisis, and finding my own voice, and figuring out big questions about the world and the universe and opening up doors for me as someone who is severely shortsighted and dependent upon prescription glasses, and I believe that knowledge is power, if that's my contribution to the battlefield we all find ourselves in fighting for healthcare, treatment, diagnosis and more research/case studies into the causes and preventative measures for lifestyle conditions like diabetes, and obviously, I am not personally content in stating "I'm fine got my meds life is peachy" and I would like to see basic measures in my lifetime like accurate food product labelling, higher standards for food safety where the onus might be on the food industry to prove to consumers conclusively that non-food chemicals (in all ultra processed foods) are completely safe for everyone, not harmful to anyone and longer term do not lead to chronic lifestyle conditions requiring prescription meds/blood tests/health screening/monitoring to manage, including food allergies, intolerances, hormone disruption, metabolism problems, blood glucose problems and food cravings leading to weight gain!

If only the solutions facing us all were as simple as "boycott refined sugar, don't buy it" then our lives would be magically transformed, we can dream, I like works of fiction too! 😉
 
No need for apology @maryjaneholland There are many members here who are very wary of Ultra Processed Foods, and the power and reach of the food industry and its lobbying, policy influence, and capacious marketing budgets.

Plus the subject often comes up of food labelling (and the disservice often done to people with diabetes by the traffic light labelling which focusses only on ‘sugar’ rather than carbohydrates as a whole.

I think one of the challenges around UPFs is currently one of definition. It is difficult to separate the goods which have been specifically engineered with taste, texture, mouth feel, sweet/salt, endorphin promotion etc to be moreish, hard to resist, and all too easy to overeat; from those which have simply been made with a combination of many fresh ingredients (like spices), or to remain edible and pleasant to eat for longer once in the home.

Personally I think it’s hard to ignore impact of the rise in the proportion of very highly processed and engineered foodstuffs currently in the average shopping trolley today vs 40 years ago, when it comes to the simultaneous rise in people having difficulty with overweight and obesity.

I don’t think UPFs are solely to blame, no one factor is. But as part of the wider socio-economic and cultural changes (including fastfood delivery, portion-size increase, time constraints, and literally every moment of every day being marketed as an opportunity for consumption - it’s pretty much a perfect storm. :(
 
Well said @everydayupsanddowns.

I would add that you should not forget that food stuffs prepared on an industrial scale and fashioned so they have a long shelf life, are robust to transport and are easy to make edible have saved may a life after a disaster or amongst those caught up in conflict.

Nothing is wholly good or wholly bad and you don't get balance from shouting about the extremes at equal volume. You get balance from taking a balanced view.
 
Maybe what we all need right now is calming, kind, compassionate, educational and nurturing voices to help explore all these issues around food and diet without resorting to anger or emotive impulsive reactions, so yes this specific recipe is not diabetes-friendly but could be easily adjusted with mixed berries, coconut flour, buckwheat flour, egg replacement powder, chia seeds, stevia sweetener, but home-cooked food is certainly more nourishing than microwave meals and takeaway food...

So here's Pen Vogler in the flesh in her kitchen making Victorian recipes come to life using wholefoods, happy holidays!

 
Maybe what we all need right now is calming, kind, compassionate, educational and nurturing voices to help explore all these issues around food and diet without resorting to anger or emotive impulsive reactions, so yes this specific recipe is not diabetes-friendly but could be easily adjusted with mixed berries, coconut flour, buckwheat flour, egg replacement powder, chia seeds, stevia sweetener, but home-cooked food is certainly more nourishing than microwave meals and takeaway food...

So here's Pen Vogler in the flesh in her kitchen making Victorian recipes come to life using wholefoods, happy holidays!

Oh dear - a pudding cloth might become greasy with use, but the waterproofing was from strewing it with flour, and probably going over the surface of the pudding with flour as well, and as soon as the hot water hit it it exploded the starch cells - like thickening gravy or custard, and it became impervious to the water.

It was probably the tinned food going rotten which brought about the loss of the Franklin expedition, and dried meat for dog food intended for the sledge pullers going to the South pole was transported around the world in poor conditions and the poor things died from food poisoning, but food taken to the food caches for Scott's expedition were found and some was brought back as curiosities, some ended up at a place where I worked and was sent to be tested - so it could be kept at a place producing food, and it was found to be perfectly safe, and when tasted was thought perfectly good to eat and not unlike the same sort of things still being made in the factory.
 
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