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New router table.

Chris Hobson

Well-Known Member
Relationship to Diabetes
Type 2
1000000075.jpg1000000076.jpgAfter being interrupted by a rather nasty cough and sore throat bug, I'm now recovered enough to complete my new router table. The old one was very heavy and had been rather crudely made out of bits of leftover wood and melamine boards. I rebuilt the drawer unit and mounted it under the workbench so the new table is much lighter. Because my workshop is quite small, I often have to move the router table and the table saw to the side to make room to work so this is an issue. I made the router table and the table saw exactly the same height so that they can be used together when handling long unwieldy pieces of timber. For some rather complicated reasons, I miscalculated the length of the table legs and it ended up 6mm too short. So I fitted some 6mm thick hardwood feet and pretended that was the plan all along. The top picture is of the hardwood insert for the aperture where the router bits come through the table. This was my wood turning debut that I did on my new lathe which I'm pretty pleased with given that it was my first attempt. The table top came from my very first table saw which came with the router station, you can see where I've blanked off the opening where the saw used to be. At the other end it had a mounting for a jigsaw which I have removed as I don't need it. The fence is from my more recently deceased table saw, one of a few things that I removed from it before taking it to the tip. The trigger on the router is held down with a cable tie with a push button safety switch to turn it on and off.
 
From the OP.

"For some rather complicated reasons, I miscalculated the length of the table legs and it ended up 6mm too short. So I fitted some 6mm thick hardwood feet and pretended that was the plan all along."

I didn't go into details on this because I thought that doing so would make the post a bit too long. Those details are mildly interesting though so I thought that I would add a little post script. It doesn't really show up very well in the picture but the legs are actually splayed outwards at seven degrees. This was necessary as having the legs vertical would have made the base quite small and unstable. Incorporating the seven degree angles required some quite complex saw cuts and I was quite pleased with myself when I got them all right and didn't have to throw any pieces in the scrap box and make them again. There is a timber subframe mounted under the top of the router table so all I had to do was to measure the height of the table saw and then subtract the height of the subframe to calculate the length of the legs, correct?

Well no actually not correct, if the legs were vertical it would have worked but the legs are at seven degrees to the vertical so it doesn't work. As it turned out, building the thing, finding that it was too short, and then making some little feet to compensate was far simpler than trying to do the complex geometric calculations that would have been required to work out the height correctly. It is fifty years since I did trigonometry at school and I struggled with it even then. The legs are splayed at seven degrees both sideways and fore and aft so the actual deviation from the vertical is a combination of the two. How to go about calculating that angle I haven't a clue. Once you do know that angle you then have to work out the extra length that needs to be added to the legs to compensate. Turns out that it's 6mm.
 
Oh, that kind of router table!
In my work, a router table is an infrastructure networking configuration. It defines how computers in an office (or group of offices) are connected, for example.
No woodworking involved and “legs” are bits of the route where 6mm are irrelevant.
 
Route that rhymes with trout. As opposed to route that rhymes with boot. Blades that spin really fast and come in all kinds of interesting shapes so that you can make interesting shapes in wood. Also less interesting shapes that can be used to cut the recess for mounting hinges, slots for biscuit joints and other more mundane jobs.
 
1000000077.jpgThere you go. The recess for the hinge is made using a plywood jig clamped to the door and a hand held router fitted with a collar around a cylindrical router bit. The corners have to be squared of with a sharp chisel. The moulding on the door post is made by passing it over the table mounted router using a roundover bit with the end bearing removed.
 
From the OP.

"For some rather complicated reasons, I miscalculated the length of the table legs and it ended up 6mm too short. So I fitted some 6mm thick hardwood feet and pretended that was the plan all along."

I didn't go into details on this because I thought that doing so would make the post a bit too long. Those details are mildly interesting though so I thought that I would add a little post script. It doesn't really show up very well in the picture but the legs are actually splayed outwards at seven degrees. This was necessary as having the legs vertical would have made the base quite small and unstable. Incorporating the seven degree angles required some quite complex saw cuts and I was quite pleased with myself when I got them all right and didn't have to throw any pieces in the scrap box and make them again. There is a timber subframe mounted under the top of the router table so all I had to do was to measure the height of the table saw and then subtract the height of the subframe to calculate the length of the legs, correct?

Well no actually not correct, if the legs were vertical it would have worked but the legs are at seven degrees to the vertical so it doesn't work. As it turned out, building the thing, finding that it was too short, and then making some little feet to compensate was far simpler than trying to do the complex geometric calculations that would have been required to work out the height correctly. It is fifty years since I did trigonometry at school and I struggled with it even then. The legs are splayed at seven degrees both sideways and fore and aft so the actual deviation from the vertical is a combination of the two. How to go about calculating that angle I haven't a clue. Once you do know that angle you then have to work out the extra length that needs to be added to the legs to compensate. Turns out that it's 6mm.
OH had not realised that the forum was so interesting for someone without diabetes. He read this in detail.
 
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